Francesco Scognamiglio opened his show with a black tank dress in stretchy satin — an uncharacteristically minimalist statement from a designer usually fond of decorative effects. The second dress was similarly plain from the front, but had an open back framed with ruffles. Soon after came a sheer black negligee edged in 3-D black leather roses slung over a black polo-neck sweater and skinny flared pants.
Countless variations on the dishabille theme ensued. In powdery shades of lilac and pink, the filmy nightdresses left little to the imagination, including the models’ satin briefs. A lacy, high-cut bodysuit paired with an oversize black astrakhan robe coat lined with pink silk was the kind of fashion statement last seen on “Dynasty” maven Alexis Colby.
Scognamiglio showed some tailored looks, too — namely razor-sharp flares sporting big gold-zipper flies. Several models also paraded calf-leather handbags from the designer’s debut accessories line.
Toward the end, Scognamiglio was back in pared-down mode with a look that combined a white, ribbed mohair cardigan with a calf-length organza skirt that was sheer enough to reveal the thigh-high boots worn underneath. Like much of the display, it lacked a touch of class.