The three elements Gabriele Colangelo plies — geometric cuts, fabric innovation and fur — do not always add up to a graceful whole. The Italian designer, recently named creative director of luxury label Giada, got a bit tangled up for fall with sashlike strips with silver-ring snaps tacked here and there. He also couldn’t help peeling back the corners of clothes for yet more origami effects.

But when he nailed it, the combination of clean shapes and innovative surfaces could be arresting, as in his pin-striped mink coats — achieved via intricate intarsia work — and minimalist gray coats and dresses enlivened with vertical chevrons of embroidered mohair.