Rebirth was the theme that creative director Zhu Chongyun focused on for her first Krizia collection. To highlight that notion, she created an installation with models standing inside fiberglass structures that evoked cocoons. Their oval shapes served as inspiration for the lineup’s silhouettes, which were defined by curved lines with a futuristic feel.

“We used traditional fabrics, including wool and silk jacquard, but we made them modern-looking through the patterns,” said Chongyun, referring to the abstract graphic motifs appearing on a range of pieces, including an hourglass dress trimmed with satin. Another ensemble — a cropped jacket in textured wool with voluminous, structured sleeves paired with a pencil skirt featuring a pleated detail — felt a bit too rigid and strict. For a more comfortable look, the designer delivered a hooded robe coat in wool lined with silk, as well as a square-collared minidress, its front embellished with subtle ruby red fringes.