The second women’s collection by Marcelo Burlon, DJ, stylist and self-professed “nightlife wizard,” combined his Patagonian roots with his streetwear brand ambitions. A sporty moto-ninja vibe prevailed over padded leather pants in black and flashy silver, and skintight stretch-knit leggings and turtlenecks done in graphic patterns inspired by gauchos. The collection fell on the sleeker, more futuristic end of the edgy hipster/hip-hop design spectrum.
Perhaps more interesting than the clothes was Burlon’s new business venture: Three months ago, he and his partners formed New Guard, a company to handle distribution and production for his brethren in nightlife culture and streetwear creative direction, including Off-White by Virgil Abloh, Hood by Air, Francesco Ragazzi’s Palm Angels and Burlon’s own line. Their offices are in a regal, arts-protected building on Via Daniele Manin in Milan. “We all kind of come from the same background,” said Burlon of New Guard. “Of course, each one of us has our own ideas and inspirations, but it’s like a new movement, a new wave.”
Sharing appears to be part of New Guard’s stylistic point of view. A wide-leg, pleated skirt-pant hybrid in Burlon’s lineup looked remarkably like one Abloh showed in his collection last spring.