Marco de Vincenzo locked onto Lurex long before it became a huge fall/winter trend in Europe. He continued to find new ways to make it exciting in a show that marked another step forward for this promising talent.
Lurex tube dresses in test-pattern stripes — a motif that reappeared on cable-knit sweaters and sunglasses — were simple and arresting. While known for his dense decoration and intensive fabric research, here it was rendered with a light hand, as in mohair embroideries resembling molecules patched on gauzy knits, or reflective beads trimming organza dusters worn over more rainbow-patterned Lurex.
The show had a faint Seventies vibe, but modernized to the hilt. Acid colors streaked patchwork denim coats and culottes, while glossy plastic decorated the clipped wool of beefy shearlings, either as an allover motif or on the big, lobe-like collars.
While de Vincenzo’s clothes skew dressy, perfect for his nightclub-like show set, the designer also included pert parkas and dramatic capes, the seams traced in colorful silk fringe. Before they hit the catwalk, models passed through a mirrored corridor that reflected them in multiple, a nifty installation that summed up the designer’s knack for visual magic.