Angela Missoni’s fall collection was for “the neo-body-conscious Missoni woman,” all knit up in tight dresses, bodysuits, wrap shirts and short skirts layered over leggings. By “neo,” Missoni apparently meant Eighties, as the knits had cutouts and single shoulders and came in marbled and static patterns and clashing colors — purple, black, white and red — that evoked the sweaty dance club look of that era.
It was an oddball collection, somewhat refreshing because it was different for the house, and different in what’s been a season of familiar this-and-that, but it was not satisfying, either. The leggings and tube dresses felt like a thin use of Missoni’s rich textile resources. And in a show about skimming the body, the best pieces were pants with a leg slightly fuller than leggings; oversize boyfriend jackets cut soft and loose in pastel Missoni zigzags; a bold red-on-red style, and a pale white-and-gray marbled look.
Part of the problem was styling; replace the hair pulled into curly updo crowns, wonky earrings and quirky hipster shoes with sporty accents and the collection could have had an athletic allure. Maybe Missoni ath-leisure is an idea to consider.