The sunny, springlike weather in Milan had some editors fretting about what to do with all the winter coats they packed. A sense of climate upheaval also fed Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s No. 21 collection for fall, in which fur — along with thick, gray cable knits, speckled tweeds and heavy gold brocades — were mashed up with papery cottons and the designer’s fetish-lingerie sheers.
The contrasts, when they weren’t overly jarring, gave this fast-paced show an eccentric personality. Fur hoodies atop cotton dresses overcharged with off-kilter Victorian ruffles? A bit forced. A brocade blouson teamed with a tweed pencil skirt? Just right. Indeed, the lineup was a bit all over the map, with tropical scenes printed on sweater coats adding to the seasonal confusion.