There were a few curiosities in Massimiliano Giornetti’s fall collection for Ferragamo. He worked from a premise of bourgeois polish with classic shapes, showing lean, long-sleeve dresses and turtlenecks with high-waisted pleated skirts that were covered up and conservative in fit, maybe a little frumpy though definitely not plain.
Giornetti’s decorative choices were strange. Circular buttons in brown and black and yellow and red — a jarring combination that belongs to McDonald’s — detracted from otherwise sophisticated looks, such as a black tailored wrap blazer with rust lapels and a matching skirt. Horizontally knit tabard capes cut an elegant, confident silhouette, but for the way they bounced like Slinkys when the models walked.
The collection’s main optical motif was precise geometric intarsias and patchworks on dresses and coats. They brought a modernist edge and visual interest to the lineup but often the graphic assemblages and colors were too intense. It worked best on the fluid silk slipdresses that closed the show and had an ease absent in much of Giornetti’s offering.