Establishing a ready-to-wear identity for any house, particularly a leather-goods house with a long, successful history unrelated to clothes, is not done in an instant. Now in her fourth season, Alessandra Facchinetti is still developing the right pitch for Tod’s as a full-fledged apparel collection. Her fall lineup was confident, with a noticeable uptick in modernity and practicality from last season, in which the label’s leather expertise suffocated the clothes.
Tod’s look is moneyed sportif, exemplified by streamlined leather trenches, bonded moto jackets and slim cropped pants grounded by sturdy loafers. The Gomminos had a heavier tread this season. Otherwise, lines were crisp and spare but decorated with measured richness. There were strong color combinations — pale pink, light brown and white, for example — and details, such as a new laced stitching that gave a polished, hand-crafted feel to Chelsea boots and peacoats.
Facchinetti nuanced the sporty sensibility via the aristocratically athletic pursuit of skiing. Some of the collection’s best pieces were a cosmopolitan take on stuff from the slopes: a padded, techy jacket belted at the waist, with a slight flare and stitching detail, and fitted sweaters with graphic patterns that resonated in the handbags and sleekly organic jewelry.
