Call it “Fifty Shades of Leather.” Gaia Trussardi confirmed her quasi-fetishistic devotion to the material by again making it the focal point of her collection, starting with the bustier and pants in coarsely pebbled leather that opened the show.

An aviator theme ran through the lineup, with items such as a gray leather jumpsuit or a voluminous brown flight jacket sprouting a thick coat of green fur. This was crossed with Eighties references, such as body-conscious rib-knit dresses and skirts as well as oversize sweaters and cardigans in metallic yarns dappled with fur. The decade’s influence could also be felt in the glossy plongé leather pleated pants with paper-bag waists, one of which, in pale gray, was paired with a matching oversize shirt to elegantly subversive effect.

Butter-soft plongé napa leather was used to make a wisp of a camisole, in an indirect reference to the company’s roots as a glove maker. But there was nothing demure about Trussardi’s sleek heroines, who looked like they could give a lesson or two in domination.