The main inspiration for Hanako Maeda’s fall collection for Adeam (Maeda spelled backward) was Japanese contemporary artist Kohei Nawa’s “PixCell” series in which he covers real taxidermy with glass beads. “It’s a combination of organic materials with more synthetic man-made materials,” the designer said backstage before the show.
This translated to luxe fur and mohair being used in unexpected combinations with more techy materials like nylon and perforated Neoprene. The opening look featured black cording woven through a tailored gray mohair top and extended to create a fringe. Maeda also developed her own cashmere-and-sable blend yarn called “sable-ridge” specifically for this season and wove color-blocked mohair stripes on wool, using it to great effect on an understated-yet-bold coat with a great sheen, but less successfully in evening looks.
With its autumnal palette of rich navy and burgundy, its creative tailoring and cozy knits, the collection was polished in a chic, sophisticated way. In Maeda’s words: “It feels a little more grown up.”