It seemed abundantly clear from the moment Bibhu Mohapatra began his show that he knows how to make his ladies look great with sleek, no-fuss dresses, luxurious outerwear, strong color mixes and plenty of polish. Midnight cashmere — a draped back coat over a silk crepe dress, a cocoon peajacket with a sweater and midcalf skirt — set the bar high for sophisticated chic. And while furs, other than as outerwear, usually make for a clunky way of dressing, Mohapatra cut his short pullovers to give them a sporty ease and no bulk. A gray astrakhan top with ruby crepe trousers, and another in black mink over an ivory crepe and onyx leather jumpsuit, stayed flatteringly close to the body. The heat factor of wearing furs worn inside is another matter.
There were plenty of mink coats, too, in sapphire with indigo, as well as in blue or silver broadtail and Russian sable. It was unfortunate when Mohapatra moved away from his simpler fare and picked up some seasonal trends — ostrich feathers, laser-cut chiffons, trains and tails — all of which we already saw he can do without.