“The New York woman who dresses day to night, who’s illuminated by black with shots of color and neon lights. The young working woman, the ageless working woman…” Donna Karan was rattling off her numerous inspirations after her fall show — all centered around her beloved city — a theme underscored by an LCD screen that lit up the runway, displaying tweets about what New York meant to random Twitter users.
A men’s wear influence ran through the collection via tailored suiting in black, gray and navy; high-neck ribbed turtlenecks; an oversize graphic herringbone coat; and tapered trousers worn Michael Jackson-style with white socks and brogues. Karan said the Manhattan skyline, with its peaks and valleys, influenced the asymmetrical sheer pleating under skirts and dresses, which came sculpted to the body in double-faced jersey or silk crepe. Her outerwear — some of it accented with faux fur — was a highlight, especially the looks with colorful jewel-embellished sleeves and lapels. The unexpected sparkle added a dose glamour to the tough looks without seeming precious.