For fall, Jeremy Scott started thinking about dolls. “Not dolls out of the box,” he clarified while sitting backstage, a vision of calmness as chaos unfolded a few feet away in his star-studded front row. “But loved and cherished dolls.…You play with them, you cut their hair, you paint on them.”

On his runway, Scott sought to channel an all-encompassing “toddler lifestyle” via baby-doll minidresses with Empire waists, Peter Pan collars, bib details and ruffled sleeves. A psychedelic “nursery rhyme”-inspired print was seen throughout, with its mixed cast of rabbits, teddy bears, rattles, hippos, mushrooms, elephants and hearts. One model wore a patent-leather-quilted bonnet, just in case the theme was unclear (and all the models wore low-heeled mary janes with colorful tights). Patent-leather cropped-top-and-skirt sets had a playful sex appeal, while outerwear came in color-blocked patchwork leather and faux-fur versions. For men, the designer continued his sporty aesthetic with mixed-pattern button-downs, quilted plastic overall shorts, onesies in a heart-shaped print, and a two-faced teddy-bear blue knit.

Scott collaborated with artist Rosson Crow on the final looks, a trio of voluminous, clownlike dresses painted on actual canvas, which he described as art pieces. It was hard not to smile as the models paraded down the runway. Mommy, can I have the whole collection?


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