Michelle Smith went bold this season for her Milly collection, not only with vibrant colors but also with graphic silhouettes. Backstage before her show, the designer said she was inspired by “postmodern graphic art and music,” and her point of view came through loud and clear, enhanced by a cool light installation on the runway.

Smith took risks, and at times they paid off. She played with geometric shapes draped on the body, such as triangular-pleat skirts, circular coats and rectangular tops. The outerwear was terrific, in particular the bonded-melton sculptural coats, crosshatch cloque cocoon jackets and shearling vests. In a nod to the Eighties, there were neon scribble prints on everything from pants to a gown, as well as a croc-embossed oversize T-shirt. Some of the origami-inspired pieces were a little too tricky, however, and could easily have been edited out of the long and repetitive show.


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