An offbeat, crafty but polished undercurrent has always coursed through Thakoon Panichgul’s collections, but in the last year it feels like he’s converted to bohemianism. This season was particularly rustic. The dominant motifs of his fall collection were bouclé stripes in shades of rust, brown and bright blue shown on slim turtlenecks and skirts; hardy, earth-toned patchwork ombré wool worked on vests and a coat; and homespun macramés.

Embracing the artisanal gave Panichgul a distinctive point of view, that was at times uneven in the show. The textures and colors — a lot of ruddy browns — of the daywear had a quirky, if sometimes frumpy textural charm that evolved in a more elegant, romantic direction for evening. Midnight blue and burgundy took over on a floral chiffon V-neck dress trimmed in sequin fringe and a tinseled sweater worn over a soft printed-chiffon skirt.

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