“The inspiration came last summer when Ryan [Lobo] and I went to see Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker,” said Ramon Martin, half of Tome’s design team, backstage before the show. For the uninitiated, De Keersmaeker is a Belgian dance icon, and the duo drew from the geometry and mathematics of her choreography with a series of delicate striped shirtdresses that became bolder as the lineup evolved, morphing into graphic stripes of black ribbon and then animal prints. (Another fall muse: Donna Karan, whose influence on the lineup could be seen mostly in a few drapy black dresses.)
Lobo and Martin worked accents of black and metallic foiled lace through the collection, which added depth and visual interest to the crisp, chic dresses and separates. Elsewhere, synthetic fabrics — there was some plastic in the skirts and cropped jackets, and an oversize pink coat in faux fur — conveyed a bit of whimsy, as did the colorful pumps, a collaboration with Sarah Jessica Parker’s SJP footwear collection. “There’s a little bit of a plastic-y, synthetic feeling, which is nice, because it breaks the sensuality a bit,” Martin said.