“I don’t like themes,” said Victoria Bartlett, referring to her fall lineup for VPL. “These clothes are all about body dynamics.”


Art, in one form or another, is always part of Bartlett’s conceit. This time she photographed the collection in the converted church in Harlem in which painter-sculptor Ugo Rondinone lives and works. References to the artist did appear in Bartlett’s use of a Thirties color palette, collages that create a trompe l’oeil effect and terrific layering.


The designer managed to reinterpret most sportswear basics in sexy and quirky stretch looks via a mix of fabrics that were equally strong in style and function: spongelike knit jackets, skirts, dresses and tanks in coral and coffee, as well as eggplant and moss; and “chic,” as Bartlett described them, tracksuits and denim sweatpants. Above all, the fabulous, devil-may-care spirit of the collection indicated that she had fun.