In a very Margiela-esque installation, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx cloaked the ornate Belgian ambassador’s residence in Paris with plastic, chandeliers included, and staged a “happening” involving a live band thrashing out Velvet Underground, black surgical masks and lots of white paint.

 

The chaotic atmosphere — with editors, models and cameramen in painter suits jockeying for space — did not completely obscure some decent, Goth-tinged clothes, notably chubby fur jackets and shaggy knits that had a frosted appearance, as if exposed to plaster dust. Quirky hats by Stephen Jones included one shaped like a big black bird that sparked a debate: Crow or penguin?

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