With a just-announced collaboration with Uniqlo in the works, design duo Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran are about to bring their vision of understated elegance to a larger audience. Their fall collection, presented in a vast hall at the National Library of France, brimmed with the confidence they must be feeling.
Building on the freshly rebranded label’s debut offering for pre-fall, the show opened with a wrap-over coat in herringbone wool, heralding a treasure trove of terrific outerwear: a navy swing coat, given extra depth by a matching long vest; draped stoles worn with midiskirts, and a trenchcoat that balanced functional details like snap buttons with slightly off-kilter proportions, such as bell sleeves and a flared hem.
The label, as it enters a growth phase, is focused on delivering perfectly calibrated wardrobe building blocks. Among the essential items on this season’s checklist were high-waisted skirts with “umbrella” hems, workwear-inspired jackets with elongated collars and dresses with plunging V-shaped necklines.
With this immaculate display, Lemaire and Tran not only pulled off their best collection to date, but also offered a thrilling glimpse of what they might deliver to the masses.