Each x Other’s Art Meets Fashion concept of commoditizing art in wearable form is not a new idea, but apparently the label’s founders, Jenny Mannerheim and Ilan Delouis, have a commercial handle on it. Their fall collection came with a lot of business-driven news: They staged their first runway show at the Palais de Tokyo; hired Masha Gard, formerly of Margiela and Alexander Wang, as head of women’s wear; and started working with Lazar Cuckovic Couture on production.
The artistic collaborators of the season were Robert Montgomery, who composed a melancholy poem about the state of our digital-obsessed society, and the band Liquid Architecture, who performed a new song, “Go Free,” at the show. If the music and poetry set the creative and atmospheric guideposts of the season, it was difficult to see what they had to do with the clothes, which were mainly a lineup of deconstructed takes on suiting done in spare, utilitarian lines.
Classic navy pinstripes were rendered as a workwear-inspired jumpsuit and a more feminine halter dress, and herringbone came on a mannish suit and a dégradé print on a nice, long jacket. Black leather motorcycle jackets over silk dresses, and oversize fisherman sweaters with tailored skirts blended with looks that have become routine in the contemporary market. Each x Other will need its artistic essence to stand out.