Hussein Chalayan planted many clues about his collection’s theme right on the clothes — employing pipe-cleaner fringe, dining-car upholstery patterns and mountain-scenery jacquards. But who in the fashion pack is well-versed enough in Agatha Christie to know it was “Murder on the Orient Express?”


Backstage, the designer said he spent six months crafting his show, titled “That Night,” giving him ample time to cloak his references and abstract his ideas. This was a diverse and often handsome collection, opening with beguiling batwing faux furs, neo-cloche hats and languid camel coats carved open at the shoulders or back.


Except for an offbeat interlude of snowboard gear in alpine camouflage, there was much chic on display, notably strong-shouldered black coats and jackets trimmed with fur, and a long gray tunic with its starburst of pleats fanning out over wide pants.


The finale gowns with their stiff pleats suspended from ball chains brought to mind the cheap cabin curtains on an airplane, not a luxury train. That Chalayan — always tampering with the evidence.

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