Isabel Marant has the ideal commercial tension of predictability and change down to a science. It’s admittedly a formula: “All my collections are always about mixing opposite sides of an idea, something very fragile but something very raw and authentic,” said Marant backstage. Appeal is always subjective, but in her case, it really hinges on one’s appreciation of the theme at hand.
Her fall lineup was one part traditional sailor, one part rogue pirate and one part pretty castaway, served on the rocks, with a twist of Parisian chic. A new silhouette for pants — extra-high-waisted, with skinny legs, done in ivory sailor styles with black buttons, ikat prints and glam studs — refreshed Marant’s tonic, tidying up the whole look.
If the pants were the big news, the tops were the highlight, with neat takes on classic naval stripes and Irish knits — a red style in particular — fitted like taut ski sweaters. The combination of the traditional and trendy will satisfy Marant acolytes, and perhaps lure some new ones.