Since winning the top prize at the Hyères fashion festival in 2011, Léa Peckre has built a reputation for artful tailoring with a subtle sensuality. At first, her collection for fall veered toward austere, with a focus on conceptual creations using pleats and curved panels in asymmetric constructions. The seductive aspect came in glimpses: sheer tulle turtlenecks — some cut away at the front — and midiskirts that were slit dangerously high in the back. The effect was particularly striking on a stiff ankle-length loden dress that split open to reveal flashes of bare leg.
Fine fringe, on the hemlines of cropped pants or tracing geometric patterns on a dress or skirt, set the clock back by about 20 years. With their handcrafted feel and drab palette of dusty purple and chartreuse, these pieces weighed down an otherwise polished lineup.