It takes a daring soul to open a show for a famed print house with an all-white ensemble. Yiqing Yin did just that with her fall collection for Leonard, which saw her powering ahead with her drive to modernize the label.


The focus was on construction rather than pattern, as Yin found innovative ways to breathe three-dimensional existence into motifs inspired by the Leonard archives. The white outfits incorporated different textures, from a quilted fabric reminiscent of elephant skin to silk-screen prints done with puff paint. Her unfettered approach to the brand’s heritage was evidenced by a cape in pale gray tapestry-patterned jacquard, which unraveled halfway into loose threads.


Yin contrasted boxy tailored silhouettes with flowing dresses in asymmetric cuts that incorporated her signature draping. Some featured double prints that moved with the folds in the fabric. “I am more focused on architecture and finding meaning, because this is also a learning experience for me, to design for my own label and at the same time for Leonard,” she said. “When you see a lot of things and you have to do a lot of things, you end up focusing on the essentials much more easily.”


With just 34 looks, Yin’s fall statement was admirably concise and on target, suggesting that multitasking suits her well.

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