“Something a bit scientific, a bit laboratory.” That’s how Jonathan Anderson described his approach to his sophomore outing for Loewe, a considerable departure from last season’s rough-hewn, artisanal debut. This was more science “lite” than genuinely clinical, with mild doses of graphic geometric prints and vibrant link belts marking clothes with a definite Eighties orientation.
Anderson clearly has a fixation on the decade, here fusing strains of its American sportswear attitude and Mugler references of cut into a casual flamboyance. A positive aura radiated from the palette, which ran variously earthy, pastel and hot bright — all of which should look welcoming beneath the transplanted granary arch of the brand’s just-opened store in Miami.
Certain themes recurred. Anderson loves a blouson and wide pants, the former in rays of colorful spliced leather or as turtleneck sweatshirts. The latter anchored the collection, appearing under almost everything. Another key look — finely pleated dresses and skirts in different fabrics coming and going — delivered unfussy fluidity.
Anderson’s takeover of Loewe remains a work in progress. Though appealing in its swagger, the dominant proportion of blouson over wide pants grew cumbersome with repetition, and many women will find it challenging. And despite the show’s overall focus, at times he hedged, adding in short, geometric-patterned skirts, a Seventies long vest and sweater and a giant tent dress that was delightfully apropos of nothing else in play. The discord read unsure rather than offbeat.
Still, Anderson is a star on the rise who has created ample fascination around the formerly sleepy Loewe in only two seasons. Now he needs to clarify a definitive aesthetic to prolong the buzz.