Martin Grant is known for old-school polished glamour, but this season he brought a whiff of wildness to his collection via touches of Mongolian wool. It was used all over on a black coat with a cinched waist and leather sleeves and selectively in the shape of a camel-colored skirt paired with a sleeveless top made from ultrafine black suede.
Even classic looks came in more rugged textures than usual: camel mohair for a peacoat and glossy brown leather for an ankle-length skirt. Trapeze coats and felt hats with little visors harkened back to the Sixties, the decade when the ladies who lunch started to let their hair down.
Grant’s more conservative customers will still find plenty of refined options in this collection, but it was nice to see him loosen things up with a few rough edges.