Do you speak English? Moncler Gamme Rouge did for fall, loud and clear with a parade of riding clothes that climaxed with a rapid-fire march of Queen’s Guards. Thank you, Giambattista Valli, for such an obvious theme at the tail end of fashion month.
This outerwear-driven collection bore all the expected hallmarks: country tweeds, Prince of Wales checks and diamond-shaped quilting. What caught your attention was the intense focus on nipped waists and peplums — except for trim capes in PVC or tartan mohair — and the way Valli patchworked with a variety of textures. Check coats sprouted Neoprene sleeves, sheepskin or fox-fur peplums, borders of gold bullion, or panels of 3-D floral embroideries on sleeves or shoulders. Other nifty effects included a camouflage of encrusted technical mesh on technical mesh, and a little red riding coat embossed with heraldic motifs.
Entering the show space, some guests likened the forest floor set to the textured carpet Dries Van Noten rolled out for his show last season. But this one was way more obvious: You could smell that it was real moss, and the dried leaves crunched underfoot as the crowd raced out. Thanks again, Giambattista.