Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof already had big shapes in mind for their fall Talbot Runhof collection. “It was going to be a lot of volume and a new proportion, a new silhouette for the house,” said Talbot backstage. Then, while scouting a show location, they came upon the former home of Mona von Bismarck, whose portrait in the foyer shows her sporting an oversize coat. “That’s the look that we want,” Runhof recalled saying.
The designers decided to make the collection about von Bismarck — “We had a lot of fun imagining her still living in this house,” said Runhof — with the clothes based on a wardrobe she would wear today.
The result was a lineup of languid, billowing outfits, generally without side or shoulder seams, requiring about four times the fabric that was used for prior collections. More elegant than past offerings, this collection offered several strong pieces, including an avocado floral cloque gown; an ivory sequin, mohair knit poncho top over a white cotton shirt and cream crepe trousers, and a short black iridescent bouclé voile dress.