Closing Tokyo Fashion Week, Facetasm delivered a high-energy show that featured creative takes on tailoring and construction. Beneath the glare of powerful fluorescent lighting, Hiromichi Ochiai sent out some complex clothes with a heavy emphasis on fabric manipulation. Ochiai’s signature techniques can risk overload at times, but he exercised a bit more restraint for fall. That was a good thing.


Large bustles of ruffles jutted out from pants, skirts and jackets, creating voluminous silhouettes with a dramatic runway impact. They might not be the most wearable pieces in the world, but they certainly looked cool. More approachable offerings included the colorful outerwear: a voluminous poncho and a motorcycle jacket, both in bright pink, and a navy peacoat with origami-like sleeves and punchy lime-green pockets. The designer also emphasized outerwear for men, showing tough leather jackets and a duffle coat with leather sleeves as well as an extralong suit jacket à la David Byrne.