A “ladies’ man” and a “playful, sensitive type with a sweet tooth and a cool streak.” These are the ways designer Shigeki Morino described the Patchy Cake Eater man. To illustrate this ideal, he opened his fall show with a series of slim-fitting, crumpled coats in a multicolored patchwork mix of checks and herringbones. They were at the same time playful and effortlessly cool.
Morino says he has taken “masculine tailoring for women” and repurposed it for men’s fashion. This could be seen in the shrunken three-piece suits consisting of cropped trousers and tiny double-breasted jackets. But there were also rockabilly influences, from leather motorcycle jackets to pompadour hairstyles. Morino topped off the cohesive and refreshing collection with a group of colorful ponchos in bold checks or geometric prints — detailed with buttons to hold them closed.