Norio Surikabe has carved out a niche for himself as a purveyor of elegant clothes for a slightly more mature woman than those targeted by many Tokyo Fashion Week brands. But for this season, he said he wanted to add an air of modernity and innocence to his collection.

Surikabe used stretchy, high-tech versions of very traditional fabrics to create a range of updated basics, from ankle pants and shift dresses to a variety of outerwear. For example, tartans were woven into a wool-polyester blend that had a slight sheen under the runway lights. And a soft, furlike material was actually a mohair fabric normally used in teddy bears. He also played with proportions, pairing fitted jackets with wide-leg trousers and exaggerated culottes of various lengths. Long dresses with straight or pleated skirts were understated to the point of nearly being utilitarian, but flashes of sequins on cowl-necked sweaters and some beautiful gathering and draping represented the modernity that Surikabe envisioned.