The work of modern-architecture pioneer Ludwig Mies van der Rohe inspired Yasutoshi Ezumi this season. Clean lines, angular cuts and structure featured prominently in his collection, which he called “Less Is More.” While Ezumi’s approach might have been minimalist in the design sense, there was nothing limited about the assortment of appealing clothes he created.
There were plenty of strong pieces here, including sweaters with long asymmetric hems and dresses crafted from contrasting graphic and solid fabrics with pleated pieces cascading from one side. Similarly, he spliced together different materials for outerwear, such as jackets incorporating synthetic Windbreaker material and leather. The hybrid garments were a tad reminiscent of Sacai’s Chitose Abe, but that might not be a bad thing, as Abe is such a hot ticket at the moment. Ezumi’s star seems to be rising as well: Vogue Italia invited him to show his collection during the recent Milan Fashion Week.