An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx riffed on contrasting themes of military and urban, formal and informal, and masculinity and femininity for fall. And if you could ignore the gimp masks and the three sweaty cameramen on the catwalk live-streaming the show onto screens at the bottom of the runway long enough to focus on the clothes, then there were a few nice ideas in the mix.
Marrying tailoring with sportswear, one look had a black blazer tucked into matching pants that had a gray marl tracksuit waistband, creating a trompe l’oeil layered effect. That high-low concept was repeated with an all-red look that had a pair of track pants teamed with a metallic red leather biker jacket that unzipped at the waist, creating a frock coat effect with the pleated skirt wafting behind.
The opening looks — white shorts worn with wide fishnets over the top — were a big letdown, but hits like the great black shearling bomber and the taupe shearling vest righted things.