There was a cool, strong glamour to this collection, which put the focus squarely on Amanda Wakeley’s signature languid shapes.
But while there was clearly a haute mood to the lineup — filled with silks, satin, fur and ultrasoft leather — those materials were all worked into clean, unfussy silhouettes. A dark chocolate silk tank dress was cinched with a masculine leather belt, while a tomato red silk jumpsuit had racer cutouts that exposed the shoulders. A fur panel was even set into a ribbed wool sweater, paired with a midi skirt.
Backstage, the designer cited “a medieval, Nordic spirit” and contemporary sportswear among her inspirations, but noted that she “didn’t want it to get theatrical.” That meant that while her looks certainly made an entrance — as in one floor-sweeping black silk skirt worn with a black tank — they had a clean, real-world appeal. Even a fluid evening dress with cutaway shoulders had a certain edge with threads of silver chain, beading and ribbon embroidered onto the diaphanous gown, lending it the air of glamorous armor.