Designer Jackie Lee said she’d taken her cues for this impactful collection from the rich, Victorian furnishings she came across when decorating her new home.


That influence was plain in the weightier, woven pieces, including a checkered coat in ultraheavy tweed, or a tunic dress with a high, ruffled neck in the same fabric.


But Lee contrasted those cumbersome designs with easier looks that riffed on men’s wear silhouettes. Also inspired by women’s shifting role at the end of the 19th century, Lee worked up pieces such as a fluid pantsuit in a light gray Prince of Wales check, worn with a matching gentlemanly shawl draped over the shoulders. A black silk tuxedo jacket was cinched at the waist and wrists with silk tassels, and paired with matching voluminous pants.


These designs worked the designer’s touchstones with a lighter, more approachable hand.

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