Marta Marques’ and Paulo Almeida have an unusual take on the concept of commercial design. They said in their show notes that they were inspired by the girls that surround them — up-and-comers in the nascence of their careers as stylists, journalists or photographers — and by the idea of letting them get involved in their creative process by inviting them into their studio to help put together the show’s looks.
Naturally, it wasn’t as simple as that. There were also androgynous and sporty nods to the defiant teenagers in “Kids” and to the personal way in which Ray and Charles Eames collected materials and colors.
Departing form the full “looks” Marques’ and Almeida have previously shown, this show’s styling was more of a separates story in a riot of color, texture and pattern. The designers, winners of last year’s LVMH Prize, toyed with layering and proportions in the blown-up checks of the oversize red-and-white gingham shirt that was layered under a fuchsia and violet tie-dye silk slipdress with a fluted hem, or in the playfully outsized grass green sweatshirt that came over a big pale blue shirt and a pretty devoré organza skirt.
The biggest statements came via three huge jackets that looked to be made from comforters. One, in hot pink, had a collar that could double as a pillow and gingham ties that hung loose, which was worn with a high-waisted denim skirt.
There was plenty there for the label’s girls, but also enough to interest women who are perhaps a little more advanced in life. The multihued ponyhair bomber with a canary yellow lambswool collar, for instance, or the fluted-hem skirts and dresses, like the rust and chocolate tie-dye slip that came over a knitted net zip-front top.