Designers Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos explored an icy winter landscape in this tactile, textured collection filled with chenille embroidery, reverse jacquards, lace and delicate knitwear.
“We were looking at abstract pattern, nature and the northern landscape,” said de Vos, while Pilotto added that colors and textures were meant to recall ice, snow and the bruised “unnatural looking” shades of a cold winter sky.
There was something majestic about this collection, with its long, sweeping skirts and coats, swirling chenille embroidery and flashes of shine thanks to ultra fine Lurex threads.
Among the standout silhouettes were ankle-grazing skirts and dresses made from color-blocked lace panels. One dress had a romantic looking scarf detail by the neck, while an elongated argyle pattern rippled down the front of a skirt.
Long, dark hooded coats resembled wintry night skies with patterns picked out in silver Lurex. Other toppers were fit for an ice queen, such as one long white one, shot through with shiny blue threads, or another made from fake teddy bear fur with lavish, embroidered toggle fastenings.
The duo also debuted a collection of jewelry with Atelier Swarovski. Called Arbol, its geometric settings were inspired by tree branches. Pilotto said after the show that he liked the idea of the branches appearing “frozen,” although the crystals themselves were as colorful as the ripest of summer fruits.
Models wore hairpins that resembled tiaras, as well as dangling earrings and bejeweled cuffs, adding a dash of primary brights to the chilly landscape.