Simone Rocha has become a first-time mother since she last showed in September and her physical and emotional transformation colored this darkly beautiful collection that bordered on the eerie.
Models at Lancaster House, a Neoclassical building and former aristocratic home, could have been Victorian wraiths floating down the spotlighted runway in their diaphanous dresses, ragged-edged tweeds and voluminous coats with ballooning sleeves.
Rocha said there was a lot going on in her head after having the baby girl, whom she named Valentine Ming. She said she’s been thinking about mothering, Victorian matrons and tactility, and wanted to put an emphasis on “feminine things.”
The collection itself was dreamy and extravagant, even with all the big shapes and rough edges. Rocha had developed three tweeds with Linton — the British mill that supplies houses including Chanel — some of which were shot with Lurex.
She layered long and floaty transparent gowns, some of which tied at the back like nightwear, over sparkly tweed coats and dresses. Some of them were embellished with crystals; others were dyed blood red.
Her silky dresses were more strict and puritanical, as in a long black one with a contrasting tulle bow at the throat, or a mauve number with ruffles at the front.
Coats were oversize, but also luscious, as in big black furs with chunky, shiny buttons and a showstopper tweed one — in bubblegum pink — that was less wraith and more Victorian prom queen.