If quiet luxury is the new mandate at Agnona, then Simon Holloway looks to be a good steward for the brand. His first collection as creative director for Agnona, shown in a series of mini shows, reflected a hushed, classically feminine approach to the house’s high-end fabric heritage, a marked difference from the fashion-driven vision of his predecessor, Stefano Pilati.
The new mode centered on understated updates of old-school glamour shapes — a spare, blush-rounded cape and matching pencil skirt; a short red cape layered over a tailored red coat. Holloway treaded lightly with the soft prettiness. The most striking thing about the lineup was color. He made good use of a cosmetic palette, playing nude and lilac off pink and red, the lone stroke of drama Holloway told WWD he planned to explore the modernist side of Agnona’s rich fabric history, expanding on it through light couture silhouettes. He delivered on that promise to an extent — the clothes signaled luxury in the traditional sense if they didn’t make a definitively modern statement.