“A world filtered by dreams, fantasies and aspirations,” was how show notes contextualized Alberta Ferretti’s fall collection. Most dreams occur during sleep, and what does one usually wear to bed? She took the obvious route into her dream world, opening the show with green satin pajama styles with pink lace insets. To contrast and perhaps seasonalize the lightness and liquidity of slinky satin and lace slips, Ferretti topped lingerie looks with hefty furs, tailored coats and also worked in a fair amount of velvet.
It was all cut from Ferretti’s classic romantic femininity, yet much like a dream sequence, here, her vision felt blurred and disconnected. There were moments of tranquil allure — it’s difficult to argue with a body-skimming satin and lace slipdress, and a tawny mauve, belted velvet pajama set captured the chill side of evening slink. But robust furs and tweeds, as well as vivid nature-inspired decoration that included climbing floral embroidery on loose, hooded jacket, and birds-in-a-tree embroidery on a sparely cut gray bustier dress didn’t quite jive with Ferretti’s idea of sleeping beauty.