Pablo Coppola built his fall collection for Bally around booties, a cool Sixties lace-up kitten heel style gone glam, statement shoe in gold snake with a pink, rounded pointed toe, and white croc dirtied up with a bit of black tarnish. Working from the ground up wasn’t a bad place to start for a house that’s primarily accessories-based, though Coppola’s ready-to-wear shouldn’t necessarily get second billing. He’s doing a good job with it, contextualizing the shoes and bags with a full-picture point of view.
He imagined Françoise Hardy in a John Waters film. You know what that means. Anything Waters-related indicates a reversal of the rules of repulsion and attraction. “The color I hate the most is pink,” said Coppola. “But if it becomes punchy I kind of like it.” He cut a giant swath of ruffles around the bustline of a hot pink silk Moiré shift with a black shirt collar and white sleeves. A similar style came in split pea green. They were punchy. Other examples of delivering the innately tacky with style included a Cruella de Vil fox fur coat done in skunky black and white and a generously cut red leather jacket with big black buttons over red leather pants. The look should’ve been wrong but felt right.