Anna Molinari said her fall collection for Blumarine was inspired by Helmut Newton’s advertising campaigns for the brand in the early Nineties.
The clothes did not literally refer to those images, which starred Nadja Auermann, Carla Bruni or a young Monica Bellucci. Rather, Molinari tapped into an erotic mood through the lavish use of fur, which covered everything from belt buckles to heels and the label’s signature Odette handbag.
A stately belted mink coat was inspired by Molinari’s mother. A younger customer might opt for a version in chromatic stripes, which were shaved to add three-dimensional depth to the motif.
Generous strips of mink were used as trimming on wispy black lace dresses, and the luxurious material also appeared on Sixties-style helmet hats that buttoned under the chin.
It made for a more consistent message than usual, though Molinari also threw in her beloved rose patterns, which were printed on chiffon dresses, silk blouses and cropped jeans, or used as appliqués on lace. These paled somewhat next to forceful statements like a scarlet monkey hair vest and matching satin pants.
“I wanted to show an eclectic, proud woman with a strong personality,” the designer said backstage. She could just as easily have been describing herself.