As a designer steering a brand with a heritage defined by lux vacationing — beach in the summer; mountains in the winter — Massimo Giorgetti was smart to approach his fall collection for Pucci by asking himself “if the jet-set still exists,” he said backstage before the show. It was a fair question. He concluded that rich holiday culture is alive and well — see Instagram for photo evidence of everyone living the dream in Gstaad while you’re at the office — and closer to the athletic, ski-driven aesthetic of Emilio Pucci’s original vision in the Sixties than the very sexy look of not-so-distant-past Pucci. He wasn’t wrong.
After years of seeing Pucci through the high-wattage bohemian gaze of Peter Dundas, it still jarred to see Giorgetti’s covered-up, eclectic sportif on the runway. But his instinct to take things back to the slopes for Pucci was relevant, if it needs honing — there was a whiff of Kenzo in the air. The lineup’s neo-Sixties ski sweaters, puffers with a mountain range print and oversize silk printed chemise dresses worn backward were bright, fun, quirky and, for the most part, wearable. A stretch silk knit graphic jumpsuit was made for the après ski bunny who wants to make a statement without showing skin.