Like father, like son. Gabriele Colangelo comes from two generations of furriers and enlisted his father, Sergio Colangelo, to realize his fall collection, an exercise in absorbing what he called a “show-off” material into his minimalist fashion universe.
Tomboyish pants, slit at the ankles and falling under the heels, certainly tempered the preciousness of full-length fur coats, some as simple as bathrobes that fastened with fabric streamers. Most were patchworks of mink, fox and sheepskin – in vertical stripes or more freewheeling crescent shapes.
The color combinations — browns mixed with steely blues or creamy shades, and in piles of different heights — were sophisticated and alluring, overshadowing non-fur items such as puff-sleeved sweatshirts and raw-edged dusters and skirts.
Kudos to Colangelo for scoring one of the most impressive venues this week: the 18th-century Biblioteca di Brera, with its soaring wooden shelves and massive chandeliers. “I used to come here to study,” he said.