Lorenzo Serafini loves the Eighties. The Seventies and Nineties too — he’s made homages to all three eras in his successful first year at Philosophy — but the Eighties is his favorite. It wasn’t a one-note fashion period, but almost none of the looks that defined the decade qualified as easy dressing. His decision to introduce polar opposite muses Lady Diana to Siouxsie Sioux in his fall collection resulted in a look that had its share of clashes, some more palatable than others.
So far Serafini’s Philosophy has been gentle romance with a snap of sexiness. Here, he indulged. “It’s still very romantic but with a new element, more decadent, slightly less innocent and ready to party,” Serafini said backstage. He amped up the Eighties with exaggerated ruffles, leather pants and skirts and velvet. Many of the silhouettes were derived from polite, bourgeois looks recast as quirky through jarring color schemes — pastels shown against aggressive black — and punk romance trims.
Lady Di had her moment with blouses with high, heavily frilled necklines that often included a ribbon tied in a bow, and scarf-print dresses with big gold buttons and velvet trim. Siouxsie came through in a pair of red leather pleated carrot leg pants, and an abundance of black. Their charming, if at times awkward, intersection felt a bit Gucci-esque, but where Serafini merged the two styles with finesse, such as a lacquered red leather jacket with ruffled trim over a scarf print dress, was sweet and a little tart.