“For this collection I went back to my professional roots and brought many elements of my past designs into this lineup,” said creative director Natasa Cagalj, who, after two seasons of presenting in the company’s showroom, made her catwalk debut.
Along with introducing specific heritage items, such as shoes with built-in socks (inspired by the footwear she used for her Central Saint Martins graduate show), she reworked a Nineties minimal look in deconstructed pieces cut in graphic, sometimes roomy, silhouettes.
Cuts, hanging ties, slits, layering and paneling infused a quirky look, from elegant tuxedo jackets with wide-legged pants to asymmetric dresses showing a discreet femininity. Cagalj sometimes touched playful notes — for example, attaching a trenchcoat to the back of a top, or decorating a shirt in a striped cotton fabric worked in military green with an allover sequined knitted front pocket.
Focused on manipulation, construction and reconstruction, the collection exuded an experimental attitude, which felt edgy and modern.