“Old is the new young,” said Gaia Trussardi backstage before the show. The designer was referring to her immersion in the company’s archives this season. Channeling a country-chic mood, she updated vintage Trussardi pants and corset jackets, delivering tight riding pants and gathered blazers worked in corduroy and printed velvet. A flowing maxi dress came layered under a double breasted blazer combining suede and Prince of Wales wool, and oversized knits were paied with slipdresses and suede skirts. Trussardi also revamped micro-geometric patterns from the brand’s tie archives, which she used for silk pajama-inspired pants and shirts that touched on a dandy attitude, also reflected in the velvet three-piece suits. The collection demonstrated the brand’s artisanal skills, especially in craft leather and suede pieces, but the overall effect felt somewhat dated and too Ralph Lauren-esque.
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