Versus Versace opted for a low-key, by-appointment presentation at its Milanese showroom to unveil the fall women’s and men’s collections.
Creative director Anthony Vaccarello — who is said to have held extensive talks with Saint Laurent — set aside his signature sexy approach to focus on a more urban, sporty look.
The lineup — which seemed aimed at fashion-conscious Millennials — was strong on military-inspired pieces, some referencing Versus’ archival designs. These included sweaters with patch pockets and asymmetric miniskirts, all punctuated by metallic buttons featuring the label’s mascot — a lion head. Unisex gabardine parkas and bomber jackets were trimmed with fur that was printed with a camouflage pattern. Elsewhere, camouflage melded with faded lion head motifs on a men’s fluid silk shirt and a miniskirt.
While keeping the silhouettes simple, Vaccarello played with embellishments, for example, recreating checkerboard patterns via metallic studs on a men’s bomber jacket and on a button-front skirt.
The lineup looked commercially savvy, if lacking a strong creative spin. Glamorous options for evening included a short asymmetric dress with one shoulder enriched with micro studs.