Carmen Marc Valvo’s fall collection was a maximalist’s delight as the designer filled his runway with exquisite lace, rich brocades and plenty of fur. A key look was the chemise cocktail dress, which he offered in a number of variations, splicing them with lace and brocade to give them a young, fresh appeal.
Valvo’s references this season were multifaceted. In a nod to Art Nouveau, he showed a selection of beautiful metallic column gowns, while Cubism inspired the serpentine scroll prints that decorated short cocktail dresses and a sleek gown. The collection also channeled Audrey Hepburn via little swing tops with fur collars paired with slim cropped trousers, and the luxury quotient was satisfied by the furs, most notably a blue iris mink coat.
While Valvo’s women’s collection was strong, his men’s wear seemed like an afterthought. The main offerings were variations on the evening suit, with many of the jackets constructed from the same fabrics as the women’s dresses.
